Travel Journal of a trip to Rome, Jan 26 1916-May 7 1916.
Her manuscript journal of a trip to Rome from 26 January 1916 to 7 May 1916. Original roan-backed marbled boards. Small quarto. pp. 145.
Phyllis Harbord's journey across war-time Europe was an unusual one. Accompanied her Aunt Leila, they embark for Dieppe "armed with documents from the Foreign Office & Scotland Yard & Ambassadorial Letters, etc & Uncle Charlie's card as military attaché which enabled us to pass all the customs without question...Our boat...was accompanied by a submarine and by an aeroplane."
Uncle Charlie, Leila's husband, was Colonel Sir Charles Lamb (1857-1948), the British military attaché in Rome. The purpose of the trip was for Leila to join her husband and for Phyllis to see something of Rome despite the war. The young woman's priviliged position, her youth and her naive insights make this a journal of more than usual interest.
The two women break their journey in Paris which Phyllis found "lovely, so beautifully big and spacious... [but] it was all terribly sad owing to the war. Lots of shops closed & everyone in mourning." Tea at the Embassy with the Berties (Lord Bertie, the British Ambassador at Paris, and his wife) proves "very stiff and formal and dull."
On her first day in Rome Uncle Charlie takes her to the station to see some English soldiers passing through on their way to Brindisi: "It was a most interesting sight to see all the pretty girls & ladies in their picturesque canteen dress giving souvenirs & chocolates & cigarettes to the Tommies. Some quite touching scenes took place & they promised to write to each other. The Italian girls give violets, silk handkerchiefs, patriotic ribbon bows, photos & post cards in exchange for uniform buttons, badges, etc." One of the soldiers gives Phyllis a button too, which she tells him she will always keep. Phyllis also has "quite a little talk with the Comtessa Cadorna - wife of the [Italian] commander-in-chief."
Aunt Leila evidently had a large American acquaintance in Rome, and Phyllis meets a number of these ladies including "some very rich pro-German called Würts,” "who Uncle Charlie would not speak to of course." Other social calls include many on the Italian aristocracy - "the people here are dreadfully pro-German...as all their money comes from Germany" (at the time Italy had declared war only on Austria.) Phyllis devotes much time, of couse, to sight-seeing, either on her own or in the company of the friends she makes among the English community. Problems arise, however, with Italian men.
Exploring on her own, Phyllis is followed in the street: "It is so awkward. I suppose I shall get used to it." Many of her evenings are taken up with dinners and receptions at embassies and grand Roman houses. On one occasion, at Madame de Kroupinski's, "there were such a lot of ambassadors & ministers & swells there. The Spanish one took me into dinner & talked of nothing but his digestion - the greedy pig - I think his wife is pro-German."
Phylllis is also in Rome when Prime Minister Asquith visits and listens to his speech: "It was a most thrilling & historical scene. We were very privileged to be allowed to come. The ancient Capitol looked magnificent with all the lines of soldiers, & the band, & old tapestries hung from the balconies. We heard every word of the speech - in English - which was really written by the Ambassador saying all the right things!...Then we ate ices & things...at a table with Asquith, etc. Uncle Charlie introduced me to all sorts of celebrities - Marconi, General Elia, Salandria - Prime Minister, Sonnini - Minister of Foreign Affairs....As we were walking in through the lines of guards a cinematograph apparatus took a snap-shot of us. So it will be amusing to go & see in a few days." Later Phyllis catches a sight of "Lord Asquith (as they call him!) playing bridge looking very smug and contented." A day or so later she writes, "At last! He has gone - I hear Lloyd George is coming next!"
Before that, however, Phyllis escapes for a few days to Naples (which Uncle Charlie hates) and visits Pompeii. Back in Rome, she witnesses some of the Easter ceremonies: "I hate the way people treat St. Peters as a convenient rendez-vous & walk about talking & laughing with their friends. I even saw flirtations going on." Only the poor peasants lifting up their children to kiss the toe of "the sacred statue" earn her approval - though Aunt Leila "says it is all too insanitary."
Leaving her aunt in Rome, Phyllis returns to Paris and England in the company of an American family, the Dunns, travelling on diplomatic passports. When Phyllis goes to arrange her papers in Paris, she has a little lesson in the ways of the world: "Colonel Dunn has put me down amongst his suite as 2nd Governess & I thought the manner of the burley English staff officer rather patronizing to me & realized what it felt like to be a gov - it was horrid!"
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